My friend and I decided to register for a three-day and two-night tour of Cat Ba Island - Lan Ha Bay with a joint stock tourist company for which we shelled out about $55 each (room rates excluded).

On the first day, the company picked us up at 7am. We travelled by mini-van through Hai Duong to Tuan Chau Ferry. After being cooped up in an office at the height of summer, we were delighted to be on the road. As scheduled, we were in time to board the 11.30am ferry but we were told on arrival that the ferry was full.

We weren’t the only ones going to Cat Ba. Just happy to be by the seaside, at first we didn’t mind waiting another hour for the next ferry.

But the 35-degree heat quickly took its toll. There was no nicely air conditioned waiting room or even a fan. We just sat and fried. There weren’t even enough seats. People spread out newspapers and plastic bags across the ground or sat on their hats. Screaming kids – hot, bothered and hungry – added to the maddening atmosphere.

My own stomach was rumbling but the only snacks around were far from appetising looking. When the ferry finally arrived a mad scramble ensued as everyone rushed to get the best seat. The hardship itinerary continued when we arrived on Cat Ba as there was no bus waiting to transfer us to the hotel. It was 2pm before we got to the three-star hotel – advertised as the best hotel on Cat Ba. It has 120 rooms in five categories which range in price from $60-$90 a night.

With another stampede bee-lining for check in we decided to grab a moment’s respite and head upstairs to the second floor restaurant. We would check in after lunch which we were informed by a tour guide would cost $4 per person. An acceptable fee for a square meal, but after I finished I was still hungry and I’m as skinny as a rake. My thoughts went out to those guests who have big appetites.

After checking in, we set off for the 12th-floor, the highest floor for rooms – the 13th and top floor is a warehouse of some kind. The room had a sea view and was equipped with nice facilities. For the first time all day I felt satisfied.

But things quickly took a turn for the worse. A power cut left the whole island high and dry. We sat in the room as the heat rose ominously. I could hear someone start as generator down below but the air conditioner didn’t come on. Later a member of staff explained that the hotel’s generators don’t generate enough power to run the air conditioners and other facilities.

We sat on the bed staring sullenly at the slow whirring ceiling fan. I tried to sleep but it was stifling so we decided to head for the beach hoping the sea water would renew us.

There are four nearby beaches. We chose Cat Co I as Tung Thu beach was too far away, Cat Co II was too popular and Cat Co III is a private beach. It seemed like a good choice. The water was a wonderful deep blue and we raced into the sea to swim. But as we bobbed around I suddenly noticed a sanitary towel floating past and dirty foam on the water’s surface. The swim didn’t seem so refreshing after that.

After another hot and sweaty experience in the room that night we rose early to head off on a tour to Lan Ha Bay and Monkey Island. The beach on Monkey island was much clearer and more beautiful than Cat Co I but there is a fee to swim here – $3 – apparently because the sand was transported here especially.

A local man also said they had to guard the beach as otherwise people would steal the sand for construction purposes. Monkey Island is an enjoyable place and the naughty monkeys who like to try and steal mobile phones or jewellery, lifted our spirits.

That night after a forgettable and expensive seafood meal we returned to the hotel to discover that the electricity was pumping. Delighted to have the AC on, we slept deeply and dreamlessly.

In the morning the guide suggested checking out early to make sure we got a seat on the early ferry. There wasn’t much time, but we decided to go to Cat Co III beach in the morning for one last swim.

But when we arrived at the beach there was a big commotion. When we asked a woman what had happened she said a man had drowned. “That’s the sixth person to drown this summer,” she said. We felt sick to the stomach and went back to the hotel. Now I couldn’t wait to get home. When we took the bus from the hotel to catch the ferry all the other Hanoians on the same tour weren’t on the bus.

The guide said they’d taken the hydrofoil to get back to Hanoi early. They were already on the road from Haiphong to Hanoi, he said cheerily. I was livid. Why hadn’t anyone told us we could do this?

Our misery continued. We eventually got to the mainland and boarded our bus, but then one of the back tires blew out – quite terrifying as we travelling quite fast at the time. By this point I was ready to cry as we waited for the puncture to be repaired. We didn’t get back to Hanoi until it was 9pm.

Normally we’re usually sad to near the end of our holiday, but I was delighted to be back in this big, hot, stuffy city.

(Source : Vietnamnet)