Hang Buom street, which connects Ma May street to Hang Duong, straddles two worlds: to the south the Old Quarter has become increasingly international and modernised with more hotels, cafés and bars catering for foreigners; the old Quarter is, after all, the main ‘backpacker district’ in the capital.

To the north is Dong Xuan market, a wholesale market and the main bread basket of ‘old Hanoi’. Here deliveries come and go throughout the day and night. All around traders, delivery men and shoppers munch on noodles in street side restaurants before getting back to business.

History

Prior to 1945, the street was known as Rue des Voiles, but after Vietnam ousted the French in 1954, the name was changed to Hang Buom.

The street’s main trade was the manufacturing of sails (buom in Vietnamese). Although the street is now completely landlocked it once rubbed shoulders with both the To Lich and Red rivers, so a maritime association wasn’t so incongruous.

In the 18th century Hanoi was such a bustling port that in 1788 the French missionary J. Richard wrote that “not even Venice could compete with the tremendous movement and activity” along the river.

The area’s ideal location was coveted by many incoming traders. In the late 19th century many Chinese émigrés settled here. The mostly Cantonese merchants were once a powerful economic force and they built their own schools, clubhouses and streets. You can still see traces of Chinese architecture here and there. The wonderful Tuoi Tho kid’s garden at 22 Hang Buom used to be Hoi Quan Quang Dong – a Chinese club-house.

You can see a number of houses with ancient exteriors and structures. At 50 Hang Buom you will see a classic example of the old wooden frames which were commonplace before the arrival of the French and shift to more modern construction materials from the end of the 20th century on.

The house at 60 Hang Buom is a curious blend of both old and modern architectural styles. The villas at 53 Hang Buom and 71 Hang Buom are also worth peeking you head in on.

Bach Ma temple, 76 Hang Buom

One of Hanoi’s most famous religious sites, Bach Ma temple worships the tutelary genie Long Do (Dragon’s Belly), a patron saint of Hanoi, and one of the four guardians of Thang Long Citadel.

According to legend, when King Ly Cong Uan tried to move the capital to Thang Long in 1010AD, he was struggling to build a solid citadel. The unsatisfied king went to Long Do Temple to pray and as he entered he was startled by a white horse running out of the temple.

The white horse, which symbolises the sun in Vietnamese culture, went out from the temple and galloped from the East to the West before returning to the temple. The king was inspired by this omen and he decided to build the city following the traces of the horse’s hooves. The city was built successfully and afterwards the king declared Long Do genie to be the protector of Thang Long citadel.

Originally built over a thousand years ago, the temple has been restored many times. In the late 17th century, the temple was widened and in 1829, it was completely rebuilt. Inside there are many valuable objects – look out for the 15 steles.

Food, glorious food!Van Thanh, 108 Hang Buom

One of Hang Buom’s most popular shops is Van Thanh, where you can find all kinds of cuts of roasted pork. You will often spot the shop by the long queue outside.

There are not many places where people will patiently queue in Hanoi, but Van Thanh is definitely one of them. The shop is a modest ‘old school’ establishment. The meat is unceremoniously hacked on a bread board and wrapped in newspaper.

The surface skin is always crisp and the meat is often fatty (as most Vietnamese prefer). You can serve it with a bowl of rice and some nuoc cham (fish sauce mixed with vinegar, lime, chili and sugar) as a dipping sauce or throw the meat into banh my sandwich.

Nowadays, young folk might prefer to go to KFC, BBQ Chicken, or Lotteria, but old Hanoians know best!

Ladybird Restaurant, 57 Hang Buom

A Vietnamese restaurant with an eye on the backpacker market this is an affordable and decent dining spot located in one of the Old Quarter’s classic ‘tube houses’. It’s mostly Vietnamese fare with some western options for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Bit Tet, 51 Hang Buom

This family run eatery is hidden down a long, dark passage on Hang Buom. Inside like a clandestine meeting place, you will find a small and bustling restaurant. The main staple is the eponymous bit tet – a Vietnamese corruption of the traditional French bifteck: a slice of beef steak served with chips with lashings of garlic on top and a salad and crusty French-style baguette on the side.

But you can also order excellent grilled seafood with blue crab or giant shrimp both available. Both are also served topped with heaps of scrumptious garlic and a crusty baguette on the side! The restaurant only opens in the evening but come early as it often closes by 9pm.

Distractions SF Salon & Spa, 16 Hang Buom

SF Salon & Spa uses the latest advancements in beauty care catering for both local and expat women with a hair salon, nail care and other services, such as waxing and reflexology treatment – definitely a great spot to pamper yourself after a long week at the grindstone.

Dragonfly Bar

A ‘studenty’-style bar with multiple rooms offering cheap drinks and a host of resident DJs. Gets crowded on weekends but always a friendly vibe and a good place for foreigners and Vietnamese to mix. There is a pool table and hookah pipes, if you are so inclined.